Fascinating breakdown of how cheap burgers are broken down and reassembled by Felicity Lawrence. They are "allowed to contain fat, collagen and connective tissue in the same proportion as they naturally occur in the cut being used" - but the actual source of those additives can and does come from anywhere: "a reconstruction of deconstructed parts, bought around the world from wherever is cheapest. Exchange rate fluctuations might affect where you want to buy your components from week to week."

The tricky question is: that produces cheap food, so that's good, isn't it? Not everyone can afford to eat the best cuts. What alternative is there that isn't just pointless middle class do-goodery? Have proponents of alternative food networks really addressed this?